Showing posts with label artists. Show all posts
Showing posts with label artists. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

CHAINED LOVE

 No excuses necessary.  
World travels with The Vintagent... 
Slipping past armored doors into
outrageous stables.
An all-access ticket. 
 We must take something!  We must have some!
What shall we steal?  
Light
Reflected from metal.  
Carried away, in our pockets, little metal boxes.
 We own nothing, nothing will save us from dissipation.
Our stolen light
As precious as the thing itself,
And a lot less trouble...trust me on this one.
To own is to be owned.
To possess is to be possessed.
Be free, and love the thing of beauty for what it is
and not because you think you own it.
You own nothing
but your character, your work, and your actions.
 This is what lives beyond you,
while your possessions move to other hands,
like faithless lovers.

But, oh lord!  Are they beautiful!














Wednesday, February 9, 2011

KARLHEINZ WEINBERGER: BACK IN THE NEWS


Trendhunters, fashionistas, and bona fide designers are desperate for new source material to mine, as the old standards - Steve McQueen, James Dean, Marylin - are becoming a bit predictable.  How many times can we see the ultra-cool visage of Steve giving his famous 'two fingers' salute at LeMans before we yawn and pass right by...we've seen it before, attached to the previous product to license his face.

When a genuine original is spotted, published in an obscure (preferably out-of-print) monograph, and a rumored exhibition years ago which nobody really saw (barring those who claim to have seen it, like the half-million attendees at the Sex Pistol's last concert in San Francisco), frissons of excitement run through the design world.  The hungry maw of Capital sends its advance men, the savvy super-expert buyers and trend forecasters for Ralph Lauren and Chanel, true curators of future style, to analyze and grab the essence of what is different about this new find.  Preferably, a new-found gold mine is just different enough to bump the existing product line into a new and irresistible direction, forcing the hands of a million consumers to lay their Amex on the table, trumped by a well-played hand of fashion poker.

Karlheinz Weinberger, the late-celebrated Swiss photographer (see my previous article here), is back on the scene this month, with TWO exhibitions in New York, plus the release of a Rizzoli monograph, 'Rebel Youth', with an introduction by John Waters ("Karlheinz Weinberger was from Switzerland?!?  You gotta be kidding me."). It appears we will no longer have to spend $1000 on ebay for our Weinberger books...

The New York Times ran a story today on the imminent flood of Karlheinz-mania, which includes an exhibition at the Swiss Institute (495 Broadway), 'Intimate Stranger', opening today (Feb 9, 2011), which includes a selection of the actual jackets and pants created by the young gang members in Weinberger's photographs.  And let us remember that what makes Karlheinz Weinberger distinctive and worthy of image-poaching is not his photographic technique - charmingly crude in-home 'studio' setups of his young friends - but the very subjects of his best-known work, the 'Halbstark' (half-strength) kids who worshiped Elvis and James Dean from a long, long distance, and grew their own feral-fashion island in the midst of placid Switzerland.  Thus, we celebrate the photographic portal through which we see these long-ago youngsters, not the actual creators of this amazing style, the original fanboys and girls, and to my knowledge none of them have come forward to claim their Vivienne Westwood moment as the true originator of an amazing 'look'.

The second exhibit at Anna Kustera Gallery (520 W. 21st - opening Feb 11th) features posthumously-printed color photographs, to be shown publicly for the first time.  All this just in time for New York's 2011 Fashion Week; what a coincidence!   Stay tuned for oversize belt buckles and horseshoes, but I doubt the zipper-replaced-by-bolts thing will appear anywhere but a John Galliano runway show... mark my words.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

'I AM A COACHBUILDER'

In a tradition which predates the internal combustion engine by several hundred years, a 'coachbuilder' was delivered a wheeled chassis without a body, and worked his artistry for the pleasure of a few customers who appreciated, and could afford, a completely bespoke conveyance, or an expression of the particular artistic vision of that builder.  When motorized 'coaches' arrived, some of the same carriage builders worked their magic on the chassis of a Cadillac or Rolls Royce, making an already fine automobile just that bit more special.
In an important sense, the coachbuilt auto was an expression of respect for the original design of the car, a paradoxical situation, but the resultant vehicle was never known simply as a 'Saoutchik' or 'Ghia' or 'Fleetwood', it was always a Delahaye with Saoutchik body, or an Alfa Romeo Ghia, or a Cadillac Fleetwood.  The coachbuilder seemed to find another possibility for a respected design, perhaps one too flambouyant for general consumption, or simply too expensive for all but a very special customer.
That Shinya Kimura prefers to call himself a Coachbuilder rather than a 'customizer' speaks to his profound love of motorcycles and appreciation for production bikes.  The breadth of his interests are evident in the variety of makes which pass through his workshop, Chabott Engineering.  Excelsior, Ducati, Triumph, Indian, Harley Davidson, Honda, MV Agusta, Kawasaki, Suzuki, have all been 'Shinyized' in his inimitable style.

His working process is accretive and completely hands-on; Shinya makes no drawings, preferring to embrace a bike with distinctive lumps of aluminum, steel, brass, iron.  A sculptor of motorcycles.  While he has an 'English wheel', the usual tool for hand-forming smooth metal body panels, it's only used "twice a year, as I prefer to use a mallet to shape metal." As a result the tanks, seats, fairings, and beaten parts are clearly handmade, artisanal, with character on the surface - ripples, dings, asymmetries, tiny voids - exactly the sort of 'mistakes' a journeyman panel expert would avoid, but which on Shinya's machines are evidence of the maker's hand; a signature, a fingerprint.
When he was 15, his first motorcycle was a Honda Cub, but it wasn't until his second motorcycle, a Suzuki OR50 two-stroke, that he began making changes, adding a larger tank from a DT1 and smaller seat, plus low handlebars for a cafĂ© racer look.  He wasn't able to move the footpegs; an awkward riding position was the result.  He kept making changes over the years to his motorcycles, eventually founding Zero Engineering in Japan, where he customized around 300 Harley Davidsons with a very distinctive look.

Wishing to branch further into his art, and work with other kinds of motorcycles, he moved to Southern California and founded Chabott Engineering, where the shop is minded by his partner, Ayu.  He hoped his move "would make me more accessible to people, as it can be difficult to communicate with Japanese businesses from America and Europe.  Now about 60% of my customers are American, the rest in Europe and Japan.  The client is very important to me, as there would be no bike without them; I don't make bikes for myself."  

Shinya interviews those who commission his machines, finding what music they enjoy, what they wear, what they eat, but takes no input regarding the direction of his labor.  After finding a donor motorcycle and necessary parts, he may ask a client if the particular marque is an acceptable base for their machine, as happened when a friend offered Shinya an MV Agusta 750 to modify.  Would that I could have been on the other end of that phone call - 'I have a four-cylinder MV - can I make you a bike from this?'  Mind boggling.

Of his working process, Shinya says, "I don't always know what the bike will look like; I don't imagine the finished design when I begin.  I would get bored if I knew what I was going to make.  Every time I'm surprised..."
The 1915 Indian twin which Shinya rode on the Cannonball Rally last summer. As he didn't complete every stage, he would like a second attempt at the Cannonball in 2012.  "It is an event for mechanics, and I am a mechanic, so it is a challenge for me to complete the entire ride."
The repair to a broken rocker arm support is distinctively his own; it has lasted over 1000 miles 'so far'.  A beautiful bodge.
An Arturo Magni exhaust for the MV.  The shaft drive is retained, as he loves the radially-finned final drive box.
Cockpit of the dohc Italian exotic; all business, all metal.
The MV gleams like a diamond amidst the oil, rust, and debris natural to an active machine shop.
The modified Honda C90 Super Cub shown at the 2008 Legend of the Motorcycle Concours; light enough to easily lift.
Based on a 1957 Triumph T110, the Triumph especially hints at Shinya's university studies in Entomology.
Triumph and Excelsior; the tanks gleaming like a future vision from the past.
The Triumph-based special was built in Japan, the chassis mostly assembled from scrap.
The H-D Knucklehead; a recent build, sits between his 1915 Indian and a '28 H-D JD, originally imported into Japan. "It has come a long way back to America."  Japan was Harley's second-largest export market in the 1920s, after Australia.
'Chabott' means 'fighting rooster' in Japanese.  The painting is by Makoto, a friend and expert pinstriper.
The Excelsior front end; an Indian leaf-spring fork with shortened leaf, plus a damper from a Moto Guzzi!
Triumph, Excelsior, Honda.
The 1974 Ducati 'round case' 750GT.